Marco Rossi and his Arctic House of Books
Destined to be a manager in another life, Marco Rossi fled his comfort zone on the shores of Lake Maggiore. First he explored a large part of the world's landmass by motorbike, and then went aboard the Swan 44 Cadeau and sailed the ocean for over 25 years. Extreme lands remain tattooed on his traveller's soul: Alaska as much as Patagonia, Canada as much as Norway. It was here, on the edge of the Arctic Circle, that he found the island where he could drop anchor.
The transition from land to sea, from motorbike to boat seems pretty abrupt. How did that come about?
I’d been thinking about a boat for a while and had some nautical knowledge anyway, thanks to my time on a dinghy and a course at the Caprera Sailing Centre. I left my bike in Seattle, after a hike to the base of the world's most vertical mountains on Baffin Island. I had returned to pick up my bike the following winter. I saw Cadeau for sale at a broker in the harbour and bought it immediately. That’s where my sailing to Alaska and my passion for the cold all started.
What does the cold represent for you?
Cold is something that we, as human beings, have to protect ourselves from. It forces us to invent clothes to deal with it, to build cosy, warm environments. And to live in community. I love the human warmth that develops around a fireplace. The cold urges us to be resourceful and to socialise.
How did you end up on Vannvåg, your island?
I arrived here by boat. It's one of the most beautiful and wildest islands I‘ve ever encountered, from the top of its mountains you can admire the majesty of the blue ocean. At the same time, it’s only a couple of hours from Tromsø, civilisation and an airport. I was looking for a place to build my project Nordlight: a guesthouse and a base for sailing excursions. My dock neighbour helped me to get in touch with the people on the island: over five dinners and several bottles of wine, he realised I was serious and spoke to his relatives who live here. The entire island community gathered and voted on my request and welcomed me.
What is the difference between sailing and living on an island?
We're on the east end of the island, the tip most exposed to storms, but also ten minutes' drive from the harbour where the boat is. At these latitudes you sail when you are in a boat, but also when you are at home watching the spectacle of the ocean through the window. In Vannvåg there is a nice balance between living and sailing.
What makes you feel you are part of the community?
Here the light in the houses must stay on, because if a neighbour gets lost, they can find a house and a light. There’s a candle ritual, like in the houses of the whalers: when they left, they would leave one candle lit.
What is the Arctic winter like?
From September to March it’s Northern Lights season, plus when the orcas arrive. Absolute darkness never exists, there are always four hours of light. You see the sun set for the last time on the 25th November and see it rise again at about the 25th of January. When the sky is clear, in those four hours of light you remain suspended in an indefinite sunrise/sunset.
You decided to set up a House of Books in Vannvåg. Why was there a need?
There should be a House of Books everywhere: founding libraries is one of the most beautiful things in the world. On the island we cannot sow anything, because almost nothing grows and what grows the wind carries away. But we can sow what we are, we can sow culture. Hence the idea of lighting an extra light in the Arctic darkness: a space for book about travel and the sea, that tell the story of the Arctic and its people, the ocean and all its waves. A refuge to host islanders, the curious and the readers who want to come and discover it.
Open to all, like churches.